I wish I could adequately describe the feeling of September in northern Michigan. The air near Lake Michigan was warm and heavy, almost tangible in its essence. I don't know if it was the very large body of water, the pine trees or the blue skies but the combination elicited a sense of peacefulness. One evening we drove on the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore to the Lake Michigan overlook to catch a sunset. On our way back down from the sand dune to our car the bells at one of the churches in Empire began chiming. The chimes combined with the feel of the air made for a truly memorable moment.
Our month was filled with camping, biking, hiking, enjoying the beach, and wine tasting. We began in South Haven, then spent two weeks in Leelanau County, and ended our trip in Montague. The weather was mostly sunny, with temperatures reaching the upper 70s during the day and dropping to the low 60s at night. Fortunately, the two rainy days coincided with our travel days, so it didn't affect our plans. The lake was still warm enough for swimming and the nights cool enough to have a fire burning.
Kal Haven Outpost, South Haven, MI
We have stayed at the Kal Haven Outpost several times and it never disappoints. The campground is right on the Kal Haven Trail making for easy access for bike riding, walking or running. The campground isn't fancy, although the owners keep improving the grounds with walkways, water features and seating areas. The bath house is very nice and the office has a little store which is very convenient.
Kal Haven Bike Trail
Thirty-four miles of crushed limestone trail linking the towns of South Haven and Kalamazoo. The trail runs through several small towns and across woods and fields of southwestern Michigan. It is possible to ride road bikes on the trail if conditions are just so, however, it is more suited to gravel, hybrid or mountain bikes. It is possible to ride on bike paths and lanes once in Kalamazoo to Bell's Brewery, an excellent place to re-fuel for the ride back. We generally start somewhere a bit east of SouthHaven to make it a reasonable distance. Gobles to Bell's is 38-miles round trip.
Wild Cherry RV Resort, Sutton's Bay, MI (Leelanau Peninsula)
This was our second time at the Wild Cherry. It is a very peaceful campground and close to lots of fun things to do. There is no bath house so only self contained trailers and RVs are allowed. The WIFI doesn't work well and we had very little AT&T cell service, but who cares with so many things to do!
Leelanau Peninsula Bike Trails
The Leelanau Peninsula is home to two of my favorite bike trails. The Traverse Area Recreation and Transportation (TART) trail runs from Sutton's Bay to Traverse City (about 30 miles roundtrip) and the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail which goes from an access parking lot at South Bohemian Road on Lake Michigan to Empire (about 45 miles roundtrip).
The TART trail passes through farmland, orchards, residential areas, and woods. The scenery is ever changing and lovely. Be sure to stop at Hop Lot in Sutton's Bay or Farm Club near Traverse City for some post-biking fuel. Stop off at the Leo Creek Preserve - just outside of Sutton's Bay - for a restful respite.
The Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail is so scenic, winding through forests, small towns, and Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park. Be aware that there are some sections where you are riding on county roads or on roads in the national park and there are some pretty big hills on the route. The highlight of the trail is the Dune Climb, rising 260 feet high and providing an amazing view of Glen Lake below.
Betsie Valley Trail, Frankfort, MI
We drove about an hour south to Frankfort, MI to ride on the Betsie Valley Trail. The trail was really great between Frankfort and Beulah, 10 miles or so one way. The first 6 miles were paved and went along the Betsie River. The 4 miles into Beulah were along Crystal Lake which was beautiful. One of my favorite rides ever. We rode another 7 miles towards Thompkinsville, but it wasn't great. Lots of sun and no shade, double track, dusty and not much variety in the scenery.
On the way back we stopped for sandwiches and drinks at the East Shore Market. The food was very good, and it looked like there were several places to eat in Beulah. After we finished riding we stopped at Stormcloud in Frankfort for a beer. Really cute brewery restaurant.
Things to do in Leelanau County
Leo Creek Preserve, Sutton's Bay - Very nice walking path and garden right off the TART Trail in downtown Sutton's Bay.
9 Bean Rows, Suttons Bay, MI - A lovely farm to table cafe with bakery items, breakfast and lunch sandwiches, pizza, and lots of fresh sourdough bread. I had the egg and gruyere cheese sandwich more than once during our stay!
Glen Arbor Farmers Market, Glen Arbor, MI - Leelanau County has a traveling farmers' market that makes an appearance in Glen Arbor, Suttons Bay, and Northport on different days. We have only been to the Tuesday market in Glen Arbor and it is spectacular. Have you ever had a bubblegum plum? Neither had I until this past September. So goooood!
Northport, MI - I love Northport. It is the northern most town in Leelanau County and in my view the most laid back. We spent a chunk of a day in Northport exploring The Grand Traverse Light House and Light Keeper's home in Leelanau State Park, visiting the local shops, and stopping for a pastie at the Around the Corner cafe. We also hit up the Big Mitten Brewery for a beer on their patio before heading back to the campground.
Shipwreck Cafe, Empire, MI - Whenever we ride the entire Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail we stop at the Shipwreck Cafe for lunch. I had the hugest turkey sandwich which was delicious and Pat had the tuna melt which he also gave a thumbs up.
Delzell Dairy, Suttons Bay - Ice cream stand. Perfect for an after ride treat!
Mission Peninsula - We drove up the Mission peninsula on our way to the Old Mission Lighthouse. The Lighthouse itself was closed to visitors, but the beach was amazing. The water was so shallow it seemed as though you could wade out a mile or more. The Peninsula is home to many vineyards and apple orchards. There is water on either side - duh its a peninsula - and is absolutely gorgeous. We stopped at the Black Star Wintery and the Mira Winery. The Mira was perched on top of a hill, a beautiful setting overlooking the East Arm of Grand Traverse Bay.
Recommended Hiking - Pyramid Point and Empire Bluffs Trail. Both are fairly short trails with amazing views!
Shady Lane Cellars - Really great winery near Sutton's Bay. It is a lovely setting - perfect for a wine tasting.
Tandem Ciders - Great little place outside of Suttons Bay. Lovely outdoor spaces. Perfect for couples, groups and families. After the tasting, I found I'm acquiring a bit of a taste for ciders. We liked the "very dry with a champagne finish" Clear Conscience.
Trailway Campground, Montague, MI
This campground is owned by the city and is right in Montague. It's a quick walk to restaurants, bars, ice cream, and the grocery store. The campground is right on the Montague-Hart Bike Trail. The sites are not huge but the campground is peaceful. It is also right next to a wetland area with a few paths.
White Lake Pathway, Fred Meijer Berry Junction Trail and the Hart-Montague Bike Trail
We were confused about which trail we were actually on most of the time. There are several bike trails that are in this area. We rode from Montague to Muskegon - about 35 miles roundtrip. We turned around at a park called Heritage Landing. The ride was very nice. The first part of the paved path out of Montague had several large sculptures. Lots of the trail was shady and through the woods.
The second day we rode from the campground in Montague to Mears - about 37 miles roundtrip. The path was okay. It wasn't particularly scenic, but it was paved and in fairly good shape. The highlight was the stop for ice cream at the Country Dairy Farm Store on the ride back.
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